2024 marked the 13th harvest year for winemaker Itay Lahat, one of the busiest professionals in the industry, who has served as a consultant to many wineries and now leads, together with Avi Feldstein, Barkan Winery — the operational and administrative base for his private wine label. This means that if in previous harvests, when Lahat operated as an independent winemaker, he produced 20,000 bottles a year, in the last harvest about 50,000 bottles were produced.
Tasting the Lahat wines released to the market — whites and rosé from 2024 and reds from 2023 — shows that none of the known qualities have changed, and that the overall impression is mature and especially impressive, thanks in part to a good harvest year and fascinating work with five different vineyard plots.
There is so much good in this tasting. From Lahat White, which in my opinion defines the best of Israeli white wines; to Lahat Red, which continues to be an excellent bistro wine, and Lahat Garrigue — Lahat’s first rosé, proving it was worth the wait: Through Lahat Leichter and Lahat Roussanne, the first a blend and the second varietal, both excellent; and up to the truly outstanding Lahat Syrah.
Nothing has changed in Lahat’s uncompromising line, even under the wing of the large commercial corporation — and how wonderful that is. Except perhaps for the Garrigue, all the wines reviewed are suitable for aging, even the lighter “white” and “red,” which will hold up for about three to four years. The others, especially the Syrah, are built for longer aging. All reflect wonderful Mediterranean character: Relatively lean body, spiced, acidic, and delightfully culinary. A sip that is pure pleasure. Cheers!
Lahat, White 2024
A few words on astringency: 60% Roussanne, 32% Viognier, and the rest Marsanne from the Upper Galilee. Grapes were harvested from six plots — in Elkosh, Peki’in, Ein Zeitim, and Balu’a. Long fermentation in barrels, about 20% of which were new. Nine months of aging on the lees. Golden color. Very aromatic nose. Medium body. 14% alcohol by volume.
Price: NIS 120.
Best paired with: Fish and seafood in olive-oil-based sauces, plancha calamari, chicken.
Critic’s note: The leading dimension in Lahat White wines through the years has always been their aromatic profile — also in this wine. Excellent acidity, sharpness, liveliness, relative lightness, great balance, and phenomenal compatibility with Mediterranean food. Compared to the other whites of Lahat, this is the most extroverted, but don’t be mistaken: It is not a “showy” wine in the common sense and is not in any way categorized among New World wines. Balanced Mediterranean character gives it its tone. Wonderful to drink now, but if you give it three to four years in the fridge, it will astonish.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good).
Lahat, Red 2023
A few words on astringency: 88% Syrah and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upper Galilee (Elkosh and Dovev vineyards). The Syrah comes from three different plots. Hand harvest, cold soak, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in 400- and 500-liter barrels. Racking and blend creation occur only after four months. Total barrel aging — 16 months. Slightly purple-red color. Nose of red fruit and plenty of spice (black pepper), earthy. Light to medium body. 14.2% alcohol by volume.
Price: NIS 125.
Best paired with: Beef tartare, minute steak, lamb chops.
Critic’s note: Relatively light body, lovely red fruit, not overly abundant, good acidity, plenty of spice (black pepper), and notable precision. This wine has a rustic earthiness full of character that reflects its terroir. A truly excellent bistro wine — culinary, unheavy, and suitable even for the hot days that are still here.
Value for money: 4/5 (Very good).
Lahat, Garrigue Rosé 2024
A few words on astringency: A rosé based on 35% Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 20% Grenache Noir, and the rest Roussanne. Grapes come from five different plots in Ben Ayun and Peki’in vineyards in the Upper Galilee. Total barrel aging — nine months. No malolactic fermentation. Pink color. Nose of red fruit and spices. Light to medium body. 13% alcohol by volume.
Price: NIS 120.
Best paired with: Fish, seafood, and chicken. Especially for a chic picnic.
Critic’s note: This is Lahat’s first rosé, and there’s no doubt it was worth waiting for. It tends toward delicacy in body, holds excellent but restrained fruit, precise balancing acidity, wonderful aromatics, true dryness, sharpness, and great freshness. “Garrigue” is the perennial shrubland surrounding vineyards in southern France, and choosing this term as the wine’s name clearly signals its orientation: A “southern” (in the French sense) rosé at its best.
Value for money: 3/5 (Not bad).
Lahat, Leichter 2024
A few words on astringency: Grenache Blanc (40%) from Peki’in vineyard, Roussanne (37%) from Ben Ayun vineyards in Elkosh and Mattat, and Marsanne (23%) from Ben Ayun vineyard in Elkosh. Nine months on the lees in 400-liter barrels (second and third use) separately, after which the blend was created.
Price: NIS 135.
Best paired with: Shellfish, fish, and seafood in an elaborate meal.
Critic’s note: This is a wine without any super-aromatic variety, and none of the barrels used were first-use barrels. The winemaker’s intention, therefore, was to create a wine that speaks in restraint and quiet, where the nuances are meant to be heard — aimed at experienced drinkers. Those who need a burst of fruit in their white wines won’t understand why it’s so wonderful. Those who have moved beyond that stage in their palate development will easily recognize this as an exceptional wine. It has plenty of nuances and complexity, and its price, relative to its quality, makes its value-for-money ratio very high.
Value for money: 4.5/5 (Excellent).
Lahat, Roussanne 2024
A few words on astringency: 100% Roussanne from Ben Ayun vineyards in Elkosh and Mattat. The must was fermented in four amphorae of 320 liters and two of 750 liters. A 300-liter barrel was added to the final blend. Nine months on the lees, after which the relationships between the wines were built. Golden color. Very floral nose. Medium body. 13.5% alcohol by volume.
Price: NIS 150.
Best paired with: Fish and seafood. Dishes based on white or even pink meat (veal).
Critic’s note: The presence of the mineral dimension is especially significant in this wine. Alongside it, the aromatic profile is also very prominent. This is an absolutely wonderful wine, notable for its precision and sharpness. It’s impossible not to be impressed by it. Like its predecessor, it is intended for connoisseurs. Definitely worth keeping at least one bottle for aging.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (Good).
Lahat, Syrah 2023
A few words on astringency: 100% Syrah from Elkosh vineyard in the Western Galilee. The wine is produced from a blend of grapes from two adjacent plots. Cold soak, fermentation in a wide vat. Transferred to 300- and 400-liter barrels, where alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are completed. Total of 16 months in wood. Light filtration and an additional six months of bottle aging before release to stores. Deep red color. Very earthy and spicy nose, medium body. 14.5% alcohol by volume.
Price: NIS 180.
Best paired with: Lamb chops, lamb stews, steaks, aged bone-in cuts.
Critic’s note: No more than medium-bodied, reflecting relative delicacy. Prominent, sharp acidity. Plenty of spice (notably black pepper). A wine of the “rustic” and “earthy” kind, reminiscent of Rhône Valley wines — specifically its northern region. Complex in its southern French style, restrained in its fruit profile, highly culinary, truly impressive. Has significant aging potential.
Value for money: 3/5 (Definitely good).