It’s a relatively early morning on a relatively ordinary weekday, so Biscotti broadcasts business and solidity as usual. The café in Bnei Brak displays a collection of meetings – business, maternity leaves, friends – and the whole atmosphere is proper. Until your gaze shifts from the people to the contents of the tables, and you realize that even solidity is a relative matter here.
Summer, you recall, brings with it the summer desserts edition. And to hell with solidity.
Biscotti’s Rogelida (NIS 28) is version 3.0 of the indulgences of 2023 and the extravagances of 2024. The base, revealed two years ago, showed very specific things that could be done with ice cream and pastries. The upgrade a year ago brought with it a joyful sundae riot, and now comes the version update. High-tech, you understand, is not only programming and computing, but also dough and sugar. Mostly dough and sugar.
The series includes Oreo Rogelida (rugelach cone, vanilla ice cream, milk chocolate ganache, Oreo crumble and Oreo cookies), pistachio Rogelida with pistachio ganache, pistachio crumble and lace chocolate tuile, as well as Mekupelet Rogelida with milk chocolate ganache, Mekupelet chocolate pieces, and lace chocolate tuile.
It’s a classic combination of buttery rugelach and soft vanilla ice cream. From there, there’s no trace of classicism, as the ice cream enters the rugelach, and all around a sweet commotion of toppings and options, and more toppings and more options. It’s as sweet as expected, as sweeping as expected, loosens ties and restraint, and suffers only from a vessel (a medium-height glass) less suited to the situation and to the spoon battle taking place within it. When the improvement note calls for a deep bowl, it’s clear this is a small victory of man over temperature.