When Lina Slutzkin left her job at Intel after two decades, she wasn’t heading toward retirement - she was stepping into a vineyard. “In 2010, I quit my job after 20 years,” she recalls, “and since then, I’ve been here.” “Here” is Kadma Winery, a boutique vineyard in the village of Kfar Uria, nestled in the sun-drenched Judean Hills. It’s also home to one of Israel’s most unique winemaking approaches: fermenting wine in giant Georgian clay vessels called qvevri.
The winery was born from a simple vision and a crumbling chicken coop. “There was this old, falling-apart henhouse, and an idea in our heads. Mine and my husband’s,” Lina says. That idea evolved over time, rather than arriving as a lifelong dream. “It wasn’t something I’d dreamed of for years,” she admits. “It just slowly became the thing I most wanted to do.”
They purchased the land in 1997, constructed a house, raised their children, and developed a deep bond with the place. “If someone had told me back then I’d go into agriculture, I would have laughed,” Lina says. “But life takes us to paths we can't always predict."
An 8,000-year-old tradition
Kadma’s wines are made using an ancient method, one largely forgotten in modern winemaking: fermentation in clay. “That’s what’s special about our winery,” Lina says. “All our wines ferment in enormous clay vessels that I brought from Georgia in 2010.”
Why clay? “That’s the ancient method,” she explains. “In every part of the ancient world where wine was made, they used clay vessels. This tradition is over 8,000 years old. Oak barrels, compared to that, are a relatively 'new' method. Barrels have been around for about a thousand years, which is still a long time, but clay came first.”
For Lina, the connection is deeply personal. “I was born in Georgia, and I always knew that wine is made in clay,” she says. “When we decided to make wine, we said, this is how we’ll do it. That was our very first decision.”
So she flew to Georgia, procured 20 clay qvevris - worth approximately 10,000 liters - and brought a container back to Israel. “Since then, we’ve been making wine this way,” she says. Most of Kadma’s red wine continues its aging in oak, blending ancient and modern techniques. But fermentation always begins in clay. They do have stainless steel tanks, Lina admits, but use them only occasionally, primarily for storage. “They’re not a significant part of the process.”
Although Kadma’s vessels are ancient, their wines aren’t just relics of the past. “We produce modern wine, not ancient wine,” Lina explains. A recent visit to Georgia, prompted by the war in Iran, revealed the distinctions. “We enjoyed plenty of local wine there,” she laughs, “and it’s quite different from what we make here.”
Traditional Georgian wines, she explains, are often light, easy-drinking, and rarely aged in oak. “They’re younger wines, more like homemade wine, not meant to age for many years.” Kadma, on the other hand, aims for structure and longevity. “We took the ancient method and adapted it to the modern palate. Our goal is to create wines that modern Israeli drinkers will love.”
A story of the earth
Kadma’s red wines are made from grapes grown in their own vineyards, right in the Harel Valley near Kfar Uria. “We’re part of the Judean Hills Wine Region,” Lina says. In fact, it’s now an officially recognized wine region, a designation made just three years ago by the Mateh Yehuda Regional Council. “All our red wines carry the symbol of the Judean Wine Region.”
The area is steeped in history and ideal terroir. “Even in ancient times, during the Roman Empire and even pharaonic Egypt, this area was known for high-quality wine,” she says. The soil is mineral-rich and chalky, and the days are sunny while the nights are cool. “All of this creates unique, high-quality flavor profiles,” Lina explains.
The Judean Hills do indeed have a long-standing winemaking tradition that stretches back thousands of years. Throughout the Roman and Byzantine eras, the region was known for producing premium wines that were traded throughout the empire. Archaeological finds like ancient rock-cut wine presses confirm its historical role as a hub of viticulture. Earlier biblical texts also mention vineyards and wine-making in Judea, linking modern winemakers to a centuries-old heritage that continues to shape Israeli wine's identity.
Their white wines, on the other hand, are primarily sourced from the northern part of Israel. “But the reds,” she emphasizes, “they’re all from right here.”
Winemaking as a way of life
When asked what a typical day at Kadma looks like, Lina laughs. “No two days are the same,” she says. Running a winery, she explains, means juggling two distinct yet inseparable worlds: the vineyard and the winemaking itself. July is especially hectic as the vines near harvest. “We’re heading into harvest season,” she says, “and that means a lot of work in the vineyard.” But once August arrives, the action shifts into high gear. “That’s when the real work begins,” she says. “We’re constantly tending to the wine, especially the reds. Until they go into barrels, I can’t rest. There’s never a dull moment - I’m always worried.”
At Kadma, the signature qvevris - the large clay vessels imported from Georgia - are used solely for fermentation. “Alcoholic fermentation is the first step, where sugar converts into alcohol,” Lina explains. This is followed by malolactic fermentation, a natural process that reduces the wine’s acidity. During this stage, the wine is stirred four times daily.
“We’re always nearby,” she says with a smile, “like it’s a baby.” After the initial fermentation, the wine is pressed and returned to the qvevri for the second phase of fermentation. Only when both stages are complete does the wine become ready for aging. Some wines are transferred to oak barrels, while others are placed into modern clay barrels, which are shaped similarly to oak but allow the wine to breathe without adding wood flavors. “It enhances the pure fruit and mineral qualities,” she explains, “which would be diminished with excessive oak.”
Bottled memories and small steps forward
One harvest stands out in Lina’s memory: 2020. “The corona harvest!” she recalls. “We had no workers, we did it ourselves, with our kids and friends. It was very hard, but also an amazing experience.” Despite the challenges, she looks back on it fondly. “I think the wines from that year turned out excellent!” she laughs.
Choosing a favorite wine, however, is like choosing a favorite child. “It depends on my mood. Some days I love the whites, other days it’s the reds,” she admits. That same thoughtful, intuitive approach extends beyond the glass.
The winery’s growth is steady and intentional. “We take small steps,” Lina says. “Every day, every week, I’m doing something new to improve something - whether it’s winemaking or expanding our barrel storage.” Even the visitor experience gets attention. “Right now, I’m waiting on a permit to add a new terrace to our visitor center,” she says.
International recognition is also beginning to flow, as Kadma recently won gold and silver medals in Rome at the Città del Vino competition - a contest open only to wines from recognized wine regions. “We couldn’t participate before the official recognition of the Judean Hills,” Lina explains. “But now we can, and we’re very proud.”
Looking ahead, Lina hopes to plant another vineyard - ten more dunams in Kfar Uria. “We’ve wanted to do it since COVID,” she says. “But something always gets in the way, first the pandemic, then wars.” “I hope," She smiles, "next year will be quiet and peaceful so we can finally make it happen. It’s always one step at a time.”
And sometimes, those steps are made in clay.
This article was written in collaboration with Kadma Winery.