Modi’in gained the image of a sleepy city, located exactly halfway between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. But less than 24 hours there were enough to show a completely different picture. Every place I arrived at — a nature spot with a view of the entire area, a café, a hosting home, or a neighborhood bar (yes, believe it or not, there is nightlife in Modi’in, and it’s actually quite lively) — proved to me that Modi’in has plenty to offer visitors from outside the city.
Another thing that stood out everywhere I went was the sense of “local pride.” Every business owner or host proudly shared the story of establishing their business in Modi’in, even those who don’t yet live there. So what can you do on a day of leisure in a place you didn’t think you would ever spend time in? Here are a few possibilities.
Giv’at HaTitora — Nature, Heritage, and Views
My morning began at Giv’at HaTitora in the city. After a short drive from the center of the country, I found myself standing in front of an open area that felt almost like another world. The path climbing to the top isn’t long, but it’s enough to make you forget for a moment that you’re in the heart of one of Israel’s fastest-growing cities. All around, splashes of color from the early winter bloom shimmered.
Along the path I met families, hikers with dogs, and locals who know every stone on this hill. At the top I had to catch my breath — and not just because of the climb. The view spread out before me was impossible to stay indifferent to: Modi’in looked like a miniature model at my feet, and on the horizon appeared the mountain ridge that has accompanied the city since the days of the Hasmoneans. Among the ancient remains, the wine presses, and the water cisterns, you can almost hear the stories of those who lived here thousands of years ago.
When I walked back down toward the neighborhoods, I felt as if I had received a small gift — a reminder that even in the busy heart of central Israel, it’s still possible to find moments of tranquility, scenery, and authenticity. Giv’at HaTitora might not be the first place that comes to mind when thinking about a trip, but it’s exactly the kind of place that makes you want to come back. Entrance is free. Take note that on weekends and holidays you cannot drive all the way up to the hill; instead you need to park on the street and walk up — just a few minutes.
There are many signs on site explaining the distant and more recent history and the surrounding geography. Anyone interested in a more in-depth guided tour can book ahead with a guide as part of the “Local Storytellers” initiative, in which several city residents were trained to give tours at locations in the city with which they feel a personal connection. The cost of the tour is NIS 300 for a group of 2–20 people. Reservations are made through the Hasmonean Heritage Museum in the city, where the archaeological findings discovered at Titura were also brought. 08-9737344.
Perlin — A Doughy Dream
After starting the day in nature, it was time for coffee and pastry. Perlin was opened just three months ago by Pnina Rivak, 30. She isn’t yet a resident of the city — something she hopes will soon change — but she always loved Modi’in and decided to open her business there. Pnina studied pastry at the age of 18, but it took her 11 years to reach the point where she felt ready to give 100 percent of herself — and she truly does. Everything at Perlin is made on site from scratch. Nothing arrives frozen or half-baked. Every pastry, sandwich bread, or cake is prepared there the same morning — and you can definitely taste it in every bite.
The cinnabon roll is among the best I’ve tried, and the Basque cheesecake alone is worth taking the train to Modi’in (this is probably the place to mention that the entire city center is just a short walk from the Modi’in Central train station). Perlin is still at the beginning of its journey, and Pnina listens very carefully to customer feedback. She constantly checks how to improve the vegan and gluten-free options, and she has also extended the opening hours. In the evening she offers wine with a cheese platter, of course alongside the pastries, sandwiches, and salads that regularly star on the menu. Dam Hamaccabim 28, Modi’in. 072-3726428.
Menda — The First Neighborhood Bar in Modi’in
From one of the new businesses on the main boulevard, I moved on to one of the more veteran ones. Hadar Menda, also 30, grew up in Modi’in. She clearly remembers the days when she wanted to go out but had to take buses outside the city simply because there were no entertainment spots within the city itself. The few bars that did exist were on the outskirts, and getting to them without a car was sometimes harder than getting to Tel Aviv.
So when the opportunity came to open a place on the new central boulevard that had just been built — perfectly timed with her return from two years in New York working for the Defense Ministry — Hadar didn’t hesitate. At only 24, together with her father, Uzi, with whom she had always dreamed of opening a joint business, she opened Menda Bar — the first neighborhood bar in the city and one of the first businesses on the new boulevard in the city center.
In the years that have passed since, she has already weathered the pandemic and the war. The city center has become one of the most prominent entertainment areas in town, and within a short walk from Menda you can now find quite a few other bars as well. But Hadar isn’t worried — she even welcomes the competition: The more businesses there are, the more people arrive, and that’s good for everyone. The neighbors and regulars keep coming, and new patrons join all the time.
On the menu you’ll find an impressive variety of draft beers, an interesting cocktail list, a worthwhile happy hour of 1+1 on all alcohol Sunday–Thursday from 18:00–20:00, and food that goes great with drinks: Pizzas, burgers, schnitzel bites, smoked sausages, and more. Nothing too complicated — but everything is done well. Dam Hamaccabim 43, Modi’in. 050-2440074.
Natasha Linetsky — A Good Sting
Natasha Linetsky had a promising and lucrative career in hi-tech, but during the 25 years she worked in the field she felt increasing burnout and began thinking about other directions. During the pandemic, when she was home more, she noticed fewer and fewer bees in her garden (we’ll get back to that garden soon), so she brought bees especially for pollination.
At the same time, after learning about the growing disappearance of bees worldwide, she also began volunteering with “Red Bee Rescue,” which saves bees across the country. “When you work in bee rescue, getting stung becomes part of the deal,” she explains — and indeed, Natasha was stung quite a lot. One time, she was stung in the leg, and a few days later she noticed that the pain from her heel spur — which had bothered her for a long time — had simply disappeared. That discovery led her to delve into apitherapy — healing through bee stings.
With the knowledge she accumulated, she began treating people. Her first patients were her parents, both over 80. Her mother, who struggled to walk from the kitchen to the living room, now walks about five kilometers a day, and her father she managed to cure of skin cancer on his lip. You can hear her fascinating story as part of the “Hosting Homes” program in Modi’in. There, you’ll be greeted with a glass of lemonade and aloe vera from Natasha’s enormous garden, along with snacks like homemade granola with Japanese raisin — also from the garden — which, despite its sweetness, actually helps reduce blood sugar.
The garden also plays a starring role in the second part of the visit, where Natasha explains how to make soil fertile or how to use rainwater in the best way. She also talks about the garden she grew in Russia, which she left at age 20, where she grew vegetables that were better than what could be bought in stores — and about the unique crops she grows today. A visit to Natasha’s home, like the other hosting homes, costs NIS 500 per session, up to 20 people. Details and coordination through the Hasmonean Heritage Museum: 08-9737344.