From resort to roots: Georgia through Lopota, Telavi, and Nekresi

Georgia is known for its resorts, one of which is located in Lopota, in the Kakheti region of Georgia, which I have written about before. Now, it is time to go out and explore the nearby surroundings.

Less than half an hour’s drive from Lopota brings you to the city of Telavi. It is, in fact, the main city in the Kakheti region, the heart of the Georgian wine industry for thousands of years. The city is the cultural, economic, administrative, and historical center of the area. Already in the second century CE, it served as a regional trade hub due to its strategic location at the crossroads between Tbilisi, the Eastern Caucasus mountains, and Azerbaijan.

In the 17th century, Telavi became the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti. King Erekle II, one of Georgia’s greatest kings, turned the city into a center of central, military, and cultural governance, but in the 19th century, it was conquered by the Russian Empire. The city and its surroundings feature several monasteries and churches, tourist sites, and museums, and it is certainly possible to visit several of them in a single day trip while also combining a visit to Lopota.

In the city center stands the Telavi Historical Museum. The museum is housed within the complex of King Erekle II’s palace, the only royal palace remaining in Georgia from the 17th and 18th centuries. The museum exhibits a rich collection of historical objects, including ethnographic materials, coin collections, and artworks. Among the displays, one can find weapons, traditional clothing, carpets, and books printed in the king’s printing house (open daily except Mondays).

The complex also includes King Erekle II’s palace. The palace, used by the king in the 18th century, preserves the spirit of the era and tells the story of Georgia’s struggles for independence against major empires. King Erekle II is considered one of the central figures in Georgian history. He ruled the regional kingdom between 1744 and 1798. His activity focused mainly on efforts to establish the kingdom’s independence against external and internal threats. On one hand, Erekle II was seen by many as a strong leader and brilliant strategist who managed to maintain relative stability in the Caucasus region. He attempted reforms in government, the economy, and the military, and even strengthened ties with the Russian Empire to protect his kingdom from Persian invasions. On the other hand, his decision to place his kingdom under Russian protection in 1783 was controversial, as many in Georgia saw it as a surrender of independence.

Moreover, this move did not prevent the devastating Persian invasion of Tbilisi in 1795. Despite the criticism, Erekle II remains a revered figure in Georgia. He is seen as a king who fought for his people, even if his decisions did not always lead to the desired outcomes. The palace displays several historical items, including royal furniture, ancient documents, weapons, and artworks depicting royal life. The palace itself is built in an impressive architectural style, combining traditional Georgian elements with more modern influences.

A five-minute walk from the museum stands an ancient plane tree, estimated to be 900 years old. The tree is one of the oldest and most impressive natural monuments in Georgia. It rises to an impressive height of 46 meters, with a trunk circumference of 12 meters. Over the years, the tree attracted literary figures and Georgian public personalities who admired its grandeur and historical significance. Due to its remarkable age, preservation efforts have been made to ensure its continued existence. Experts use advanced technologies to assess its health and implement measures such as pruning and support belts to maintain its vitality. Visitors to the city are highly recommended to see this giant survivor.

Another point in the city not to be missed is Telavi’s central market. The market is indoors, with many surrounding streets selling a variety of goods. The produce sold is mainly fresh fruits and vegetables and other food products. But it is also the place to buy the local sweet Churchkhela, described by locals as "the Georgian Snickers." Churchkhela is made from a string of nuts (usually walnuts) threaded on a cord and dipped in a thick mixture of grape juice, flour (some use potato starch), and sugar, then hung to dry. The sweet, which resembles a long sausage, is considered one of Georgia’s traditional culinary symbols, originating as a byproduct of the Georgian wine industry, as concentrated grape juice is used for the coating.

Another place, about half an hour’s drive from Telavi and certainly worth visiting, is Nekresi Monastery. The monastery was founded in the 4th century CE and is one of the oldest religious sites in Georgia, considered an exceptional spiritual, historical, and architectural meeting point. In the 4th century, when Georgia was among the first countries to adopt Christianity as an official religion, the monastery was established. It served as a religious, cultural, and educational center in the Kakheti region, as well as a defensive point in historical conflicts.

The monastery is built on a high hill offering a breathtaking view of the Alazani Valley and the Eastern Caucasus mountains. The complex includes several ancient structures: The main church, additional smaller churches, monks’ residences, defensive walls, and an ancient fortress protecting the complex from invaders. The central church, built of local stone, is an example of early Georgian architecture in a Byzantine-local style, with semi-circular domes and thick walls that ensured the building’s durability over centuries. Inside the church, one can see ancient wall paintings depicting Christian scenes, part of the site’s important cultural heritage. One of the restored paintings is of Saint Nino. The original painting was looted. Saint Nino holds a special place in Georgian history, as she brought Christianity to the region at the beginning of the 4th century and deeply influenced Georgian culture. She carried a cross made of vine, which became a symbol of Georgian Christianity, and began spreading the faith among the locals. Her influence reached King Mirian III and his wife Nana, and thanks to her, they converted to Christianity and declared it the kingdom’s official religion. Nino’s figure remains revered and is recognized as an important saint in the Georgian Church, and of course here at Nekresi Monastery.

According to local legend, when Muslim invaders attempted to raid the monastery, the monks placed pigs around it. Since pigs are considered impure in Islam, the invaders refrained from entering, effectively saving the monastery from attack. Therefore, Nekresi is one of the few Christian sites in the world where pigs, rather than chickens or sheep, are sacrificed. Pork is often used in festive meals as a commemoration of the monastery’s historical defense strategy.

The climb to Nekresi Monastery is very steep and difficult, and every half hour, a bus transports visitors from the entrance gate to the monastery itself.

At the reception building of Lopota, it is possible to request a guide with a car (for a fee) who will take visitors on a tour of Telavi and its surroundings. My guide was friendly and professional; his name was Bakari Gakhutishvili.

Nekresi Monastery: Nekresi Monastery | Georgian Travel Guide