A popular Kyrgyz joke says that when God was dividing the lands among the peoples, the Kyrgyz fell asleep. When he woke up, he ran to God in a panic and confessed his failure. God appreciated his honesty and said, “Okay, take paradise.” And so it was. At least, that’s how it looks. I’ve traveled to many countries around the world, but I’ve never encountered nature and beauty like that of Kyrgyzstan.
Most of what you find there can be seen elsewhere as well. But the uniqueness lies in the extraordinary diversity and proximity of different landscapes. On the same day, you can set off through a dry, barren desert that within an hour transforms into an alpine landscape filled with rivers and forests, and then change again to endless plains of grass in every shade of green, before returning to the desert – this time in red and burgundy hues. Suddenly, in its heart, a lake with crystal-clear turquoise waters appears. Golden eagles soar above, watching a herd of Bactrian camels and horses nearby. Always horses.
All this beauty can be experienced without a long journey. A week to ten days is enough to absorb most of the must-see sights. And it’s combined with an unspoiled, direct encounter with Kyrgyz nomads, Muslim minorities of Chinese descent, Soviet heritage, fascinating cultures, and delicious food. Add to this a successful Netflix series – “Offroad,” in which Rotem Sela and Lior Raz drive around Kyrgyzstan in a jeep – and you have a destination that is only a matter of time before it is discovered by Israelis. Try to get there first.
Before we talk about how to travel, let’s get to know the destination. Kyrgyzstan, located in Central Asia, is a large country, especially compared to Israel, but only about seven million people live there. This means it is very sparsely populated. Except for two large cities – the capital Bishkek and Osh – most of the population lives in villages and towns. Kyrgyz history began with nomadic tribes, which around the 10th century coalesced into a single people. Over the years, other peoples joined them, especially Russians who ruled the area from the 19th century. From 1937, Kyrgyzstan became part of the Soviet Union, a fact still very noticeable today in the Russian language spoken by everyone, and in the Soviet architecture found in the cities and towns.
After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan gained independence in August 1991. Since then, it has suffered from political instability, leading to several coups and violent events. About 70% of the population are Kyrgyz, and the largest minority is Russian. Many of them have lived there for generations, since the 19th century, and still do not speak Kyrgyz. The main religion is Islam. Although the constitution mandates a clear separation between religion and state, in recent years there has been a noticeable religious revival. Yet, it is still common to see a group of friends where one wears entirely Western clothing and another wears a veil. As Israelis, we did not feel even a trace of hostility or antagonism there.
The country is called “the Switzerland of Central Asia” because of its landscapes, but perhaps also because of its foreign policy – it adopted Switzerland’s neutral stance. The Kyrgyz conduct most of their business with sanctioned Russia and China – with whom they share a border – but also maintain good relations with the West. In the same spirit, they maintain good relations with Iran and Israel, which assists them especially in agriculture.
Currently, what is most noticeable in Kyrgyzstan is a kind of economic recovery. Here, they benefit from the Russia-Ukraine war and the sanctions on Russia, which uses Kyrgyzstan as a kind of front. Goods intended for Russia, mainly from China, pass through Kyrgyzstan, receive the label “Made in Kyrgyzstan,” and continue to Russia, with which there is a free trade agreement.
The profit the Kyrgyz make from this translates into an economic boom, seen in the creation of a broad middle class, endless road construction across the country, and a general atmosphere of entrepreneurship and determination to succeed, which we encountered among many people. Add decent revenue from gold and uranium mines – yes, bulk water sales to drought-stricken neighbors like Kazakhstan – and minimal security expenses, since it lives in peace with all its neighbors, and you have a sleeping beauty awakening right now.
So, how do you travel there? You will probably start in the capital, Bishkek. There are no direct flights from Israel yet, but I assume it will come eventually; currently, you can fly via the UAE or Azerbaijan. Bishkek itself, with over a million residents, is far from a tourist attraction, but don’t skip its central market – Osh Bazar – a stunning sensory collection of countless spices, sweets, cheeses, dried fruits, and horse tack. Again, horses are a central theme. As a large, developing city, you can already find good restaurants and even a mall (mostly filled with Chinese goods). And even the LGBTQ+ community, although almost everyone we asked said, “We don’t have those here.” They do exist, of course, including cafes identified with the community, but men still would not dare walk holding hands in public.
From Bishkek, you set out to explore the country. It is difficult to travel completely independently in Kyrgyzstan. Most of the interesting routes require a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Even skilled jeep drivers are advised not to drive alone, as they may get stuck in very remote areas. So what do you do? Either join a pre-organized group, renting several jeeps and a local guide; or travel with a private guide and driver, as we did. Some guides work regularly with Israelis. Our guide, excellent and having lived in Israel for a decade with excellent Hebrew, can be recommended privately.
Such a guide simply drives you all day along the route you agreed upon in advance, and in the evenings reaches lodging they know. Accommodations range from family-run guesthouses to yurts – the traditional round tent – and hotels. Regarding the route, Kyrgyzstan is roughly divided into two areas: A long trip in the north or in the south. We traveled in the north, the more popular region, but the south also sounded like a dream journey. Along the route, there are several must-see sites, almost all visited by tourists, such as Lake Son-Kul, situated at 3,000 meters and surrounded by nomads who come there in summer with all their horses, cows, and sheep.
The huge Issyk-Kul Lake, whose waters are perfect for swimming. And the Karakol area, rich in stunning alpine valleys surrounded by towering mountains and glaciers. After nine days with the guide, we continued on a five-day trekking journey with another guide, called the Karakol Trek, which is one of the most beautiful I have ever done in my life. With 4,000-meter peaks, a gorgeous lake, dense forests, and rushing rivers.
During the trip, no matter where, do not miss encounters with locals, especially nomads. Despite the exotic label, most contemporary nomads live year-round in permanent homes in villages. Only around mid-June do they ascend with their families to highlands, where abundant grass awaits all their animals for free. They stay until mid-September before it becomes too cold. The image they evoke as primitive and poor is immediately dispelled, because the animals can be highly valuable. A horse costs about $6,000, a cow about $3,000, and there are many of them.
At the same time, nomad children we met attend schools in villages where they learn Russian and English. Their summer stay in the mountains seems like a fascinating camp I would wish for my own children. We arrived at a nomad yurt during a rainstorm and received exemplary hospitality, including a meal that always begins in Kyrgyzstan with as many sweets as possible on the table – candies, biscuits, jams – even before the food.
And the traditional drink, kumis, which is fermented mare’s milk. And it tastes… exactly as it sounds. I took a polite sip, choked quietly, and thanked the host while trying to overcome the nausea. What else do they eat there? Lots of meat, mainly lamb and beef. Meat also appears in salads, soups, and many combinations of dough dumplings with minced meat. Not a particularly sophisticated cuisine, but it has many tasty dishes.
And how much does it cost? Kyrgyzstan is very cheap. A double room in a guesthouse, plus breakfast and dinner, costs about NIS 200. A 15-minute taxi ride, NIS 4. A can of cola, less than a shekel (but good luck finding Coke Zero). Yet, since it’s almost impossible to travel entirely independently, you will spend quite a bit on a guide and rented jeep, so the total cost is moderate.
After two weeks in Kyrgyzstan, we did not want to leave. But as the song says, paradise is heaven after hell for some. Young Kyrgyz are leaving the country in growing numbers. Our trekking guide said that everyone who grew up with her in her neighborhood no longer lives there. Most moved to Russia, drawn by stories of easy money that often end in disappointment, yet they are ashamed to return. Others went to the U.S. and Canada. Statistically, over a million Kyrgyz citizens live abroad. This is not just for financial reasons but also due to a deep lack of trust in a country that has suffered instability from day one, and, as mentioned, whose Muslim identity is strengthening.
But there are reasons for optimism. Half of the government and parliament members are women. Recently, a groundbreaking law was passed allowing gender-affirming surgery in the country. Kyrgyzstan is changing literally day by day. I suggest you fly there, literally, before you say goodbye to your days of innocence.